The Ndebele (Herringbone) Stitch – It’s Roots and Modern Use

The Ndebele stitch is often referred to in our culture as the Herringbone stitch. It can be used to create simple or complex pieces of beaded artwear. But first, a little about it’s history.

The Ndebele Nation in current Zimbabwe (South Africa) originated when part of the Zulu tribe branched off in the 1820’s. As this group migrated north to current Zimbabwe, other clans were absorbed into the group. The current population is approximately 2.2 million. Art is extremely important to the Ndebele culture, and can be found in every part of their everyday life. They even decorate the outside of their buildings!

Pictured above you can see an Ndebele woman in native dress, with artwork on their buildings visible in the background. Photo is from www.krugerpark.co.za/africa_ndebele.html

Beadwork is traditionally incorporated into the clothing (particularly women’s clothing), and can provide information such as social or marital status, and portray significant events throughout their life. Mothers make fertility dolls for their daughters, which are destroyed after the daughter has her first child.

Above you can see close up patterns of traditional Ndebele beadwork. Photos from www.thebeadsite.com/ub_nbart.htm

According to Vicki Star “Beading With Herringbone Stitch”, the women do not use patterns or instructions – creating patterns inside their head! Young girls of the tribe will make and send small beaded ‘love letters’ to their suitors, the meaning of which is determined by the placement and use of color. (See photo below).

Vicki has the following chart in her book, designating colors used by the women and their meaning (which can vary from tribe to tribe):

Color Positive Negative

Black Marriage, regeneration Sorrow, despair, death

Blue Fidelity, request Ill feeling, hostility

Yellow Wealth, industry Withering away

Green Jealousy, lovesickness Illness, discord

Pink Oath Poverty, Laziness

Red Intense passion, love Anger, heartache

Turquoise Loneliness, missing love Impatience

Brown Nurturing or growing love Emptiness, hunger

White Spiritual love, virginity, purity

All traditional Ndebele bead work is done off-loom, with approximately size 10/0 beads. The beads are worked in pairs, and slant away from each other at one end – looking like a small ‘v’. The work can be done flat, circular or tubular form, with the full range of seed bead sizes, and with the different cuts – round, cylinder, hex, cubes and triangles. It can even be done with firepolish beads!

Vicki’s book has great instructions and diagrams for getting started with the Ndebele (herringbone) stitch – flat, tubular and circular. She also has lots of wonderful patterns – including 3-dimensional flowers, 3-dimensional vessels, and a business card case. The book is available at Beading Elements for $21.95.

Below are samples of bead weaving jewelry made with the Ndebele (Herringbone) stitch that were made by our store employees.